forklift

forklift

Electric Forklift Move Forward

Electric Forklift Won't Move Forward or Reverse

My electric forklift wont go forward or reverse. However, it will lift. When I press the pedel to go forward, it does click, then I can hear the motor, and does start to move, but then when I press the pedel a bit more, it shuts down. Any advise? Help me. Also each battery is a full 12 volts. They are new.

Call a service person.

Good luck with that e-mail address. These are easily harvested by the spam-bots that patrol fora, which will readily bombard it with scam adverts for non-prescription pharmaceuticals and for ways purporting to get money out of Nigeria, rendering it practically useless in the intermediate term.

Sounds like a defective drive motor. Lynlynch is correct: get a serviceman to check it out.

Or, a defective foot pedal/controller. Call the man.

Vader, do you still have my tractor?

Yup, been using it to drag rebel fighters around to make them crash into one another.

Hey, even a Sith Lord need to be entertained once in a while you know.

Check Limit switch at reverse /forward pedal for correct operation.

It could still be the battery, assuming your meter is accurate, a 12 volt battery with only 12 volts is mostly empty......it should read at least 13 volts after a charge.

At a guess, you have some defective cell(s)

Charge each 12 volt battery separately and check the voltage while charging to be probably around 14 volts. Remove the charger and it should drop a bit and say about 10 minutes later, about 13 volts....

Its difficult to be completely specific with so little power tool.

You say it starts to move when you press the pedal to start with.

Does it continue to move with the pedal held in this position before pressing it in further or does it stop all the same?

You most likely have a number of packing machine in series/parallel connection. A single weak cell among all of them could cause the symptoms you described. After charging, let the batteries sit for two hours without load, then test the voltage on each battery in the bank. You should also check specific gravity for each cell, looking for any that diverge significantly from what the rest of them read (NOTE: the specific gravity of battery acid is temperature-dependent, and should be adjusted per your normal working environment. Any good v belt manufacturer will provide you with proper SG readings adjusted for temperature, if you want to get really exact). Again, both of these tests must be done after the batteries have been off the charger for a minimum of two hours, and before any load has been put on them. It is a good idea to disconnect the garden tool from each other as soon as you take them off the charger, so adjacent cells can not bleed off the good batteries.

If you find one bad battery, it is a good idea to replace all of the batteries in the bank at the same time. You can significantly reduce the effective age of batteries by mixing and pressure washer batteries of different age (all batteries tend to lose capacity as they age, and mixing batteries of differing capacities will quickly wear out your good batteries).

 

 

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